|LAYERED HAIR Styling Techniques
of the 1920's and 1930's
35 illustrations and 12 photos
along with detailed instructions
Bobbed Hairstyles of the 1920's & 1930's
Bobbed haircuts experienced a revival during the First World War for practical reasons. These early Bobs such as the "Castle Bob", "Dutch Bob", and "Page Bob" were relatively plain but as time went by women looked for ways to enhance the Bob. Large numbers of women changed from long hair to short hair between 1923 and 1928. In 1925 the curled "Mae Murray" and the "Rose Petal" Bob were the rage as women began to realize the importance of individual styling. In 1933 waves were the rage. Marcelled and finger-waved hair took the edge off the hard-edged early bobs. This trend away from standardized bobbed hair to individual hair cuts and styles was a big factor in the enduring popularity of the Bob during the twenties and thirties.
Create Beautiful Layered Bob Haircuts
Learn how to create the short, intermediate, and long bobs of the 1920's and 1930's - the beautiful bobs of the modern era. Learn how to cut and mould to the contours of the head and neck...the natural hair lines...and the facial features. Learn how to emphasize good features and minimize defects to create a coiffure which will have lines and beauty that enhance a persons charm.
The illustrations and instructions in "1920's - 30's Haircutting and Styling" have been selected to help you master the intricacies of individual hair cutting and styling, particularly in relation to Layering. You will learn many of the skills necessary to recreate stylish 1920's and 1930's bobbed hairstyles from someone who was the foremost exponent of the art.
This book is primarily about customized cutting and styling techniques, particularly layering, for bobbed hairstyles. It assumes you already know how to water-wave, marcel, and finger-wave.
Excerpt #1 from "1920's - 30's Haircutting and Styling"
Hair which is properly cut in layers is easier to wave and retains the wave longer. Thus, the use of too heavy curling fluid is eliminated, the drying period is greatly shortened, and it becomes an easy matter for a woman to comb and set her own hair after it is waved. As you know, many women are afraid to comb their hair out completely from one shampoo to another, for fear that they will not be able to get it into the regular waves again. Then, too, layer cut hair gives the appearance of neatness and smartness. In almost every instance, a hairdress based on layer cut hair is also much more becoming and youthful. (Note the effective illustration of this in Figures 81 and 82.)
This illustrates a finished hair cut, if hair is to be worn straight. It is advisable to comb the hair into place with water and hair tonic, thus giving more of a foundation and a finished effect. Place a net over the hair and dry.
• Fig. 52 - This sketch shows a head of fine hair. The hair must be lifted up high enough from the scalp to judge correctly the length of the first layer.
The stroke of the scissors in layering the hair, goes from the fingers almost to the scalp. Otherwise, if the stroke is too short, the ends will be stubby and will not fit in properly, thereby permitting the beginning and ending of the layers to be seen.
Each layer must be extremely fine and as thin as a veil, in order to obtain the best results.
In this illustration only ten layers are indicated, but you will continue in the same manner to the nape of the neck; then proceed to the sides and layer the same as for the front.
• Fig. 53 - Here is the finished layered hair cut, before waving. As shown, all these ends are very fine. It would not be possible to dress the hair properly if these ends were stubby or layered with too short a stroke.
This type of hair cut lends itself to numerous fashions, such as the French curl, "Mae Murray Bob," or various pin curl bobs, as well as the French Bouclette curl.
The following photographs show different views of hair, cut in layers.
• Fig. 54 - One of the many ideas of arranging a combination shingle and layer hair cut is shown here.
This fan-shaped side hair may be divided again in different vertical layers and the ends turned in towards the face, giving a more feminine effect. You may also divide the top layer of this arrangement in two or three layers and turn the ends of the hair of each layer into a half ringlet or a whole ringlet curl. Such treatment will give height to those types of heads which happen to be flat and to short women who wish to appear taller.
Excerpt #2 from "1920's - 30's Haircutting and Styling"
Hold the complete section of side hair in the left hand and cut about an inch and a half or two inches below the length of the finished back hair. Part off an outside thin layer as indicated. This outside layer of hair should never be thinned.
• Fig. 17
Showing layers and sections of sides to be thinned. Take the top layer off, next to the part, and hold in place with side combs, as this outside layer must not be thinned. Then take section 1 of layer B and start thinning, the same as explained under Figure 12.
• Fig. 18
Here we have layer "C"; again beginning at section 1, thereby taking care of each section to section 5.
• Fig. 19
Thinning of layer D, beginning at section 1, up to section 5. This is the last layer to be thinned, otherwise the ear would show through. Never thin the hair too much over the ear, if the hair is worn covering the ear or with a back slant over the ear. Make sure there is enough hair left to cover the ear.
• Fig. 20
After layers B, C, D, and E have been taken down and combed smoothly, cut them even with layer E, thus giving the hair the same length all around. Follow the same procedure for the other side of the head.
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