Styling Hair using Shingling to Create the Bobbed Hairstyle
The word shingling is often misunderstood by the public. How often has a patron asked you not to shingle her hair, although she really needs cutting, tapering or thinning? For this reason, if a neck trim is necessary, which, of course, requires shingling, it is not advisable to mention the word "shingling" before the patron, as she may become uneasy or excited on hearing the word, thinking that her hair will be cut too short or too high.
NOTE: The following text is taken from one of our books on 1920s hairstyles. While you can read the complete text of this book online, most of the illustrations are missing. However it gives you an opportunity to assess the content and if you're interested you can buy a digital download version of the Book complete with 119 illustrations and photos - Click here to buy "1920's-30's Haircutting and Styling"
When giving a shingle hair cut, cut the hair close to the scalp at the nape of the neck and leave the hair gradually longer as you go higher, without showing a definite line. A shingle hair cut, as a foundation, lends itself to almost any hairdress.
The sketches which follow are self-explanatory and will prove of great assistance to you if studied carefully.
Shingling is an art. Years of experience are required to become proficient at it. The hands must be steady, otherwise you may cut little patches of hair here and there, giving the appearance of steps. A shingle must not resemble a staircase; it may be said that a shingle is a series of tapers cut so evenly that they give a soft, sloping effect.
• Fig. 28
Shows the hair parted from the crown to the neck. Leave a small amount of hair, two or three inches, as shown, to be shingled. Hold the hair in place with side combs so it will not interfere with the shingling. This is very im-portant. (See the following illustration.)
• Fig. 29
After the shingling, finish the neckline in the most suitable way.
• Fig. 30
Finishing of the neckline.
Here is a medium length "one-point" or "V'-shaped neck line. This edge is so often left in what may be termed a "raw" condition. Instead of lying flat and clinging to the skin, the edge stands away, brush-like. Each little edge has to be taken care of by using the fine side of the comb, placing the comb flat on the neck and under the ends of this edge of hair. Then slightly raise the ends of the hair with the comb and, working with the points of the scissors, finish this off in what is termed a "feather-edge", indicated by arrow. Now take out the side combs. Comb the hair down over the finished part of the neck line. Part this hair off about an inch and a half above the already finished neck line, from ear to ear. The layer must be thin enough to be able to see the portion already finished underneath.
• Fig. 31
This layer has to be tapered to fit in with the finished portion. (See section on Thinning and Tapering.) Proceed in the same manner with the remaining layers until you have reached the top layer.
• Fig. 32
This sketch illustrates how the hair looks before tapering the last layer. Arrow points to the finished part underneath. After tapering the last layer (see section on Thinning and Tapering), you are ready to start the thinning of the sides.
• Fig. 33
Since the part is on the right side, we now thin the heavy side.
First comb the layer next to the part out of the way, as this layer should not be thinned. Then take section 1 of layer A and start thinning. Proceed in this way up to section 5.
Comb layer A which has been thinned and hold out of the way with side combs. Proceed in the same manner with layers B and C.
Illustration shows the thinning of layer D, section 1. Follow in the same manner with remaining layers and sections.
• Fig. 34
After you have finished the thinning, take the last layer and taper to the desired length. If the hair is to be worn straight down, taper the sides so they connect with the already finished back.
Then take layer by layer and taper to fit in with the side foundation already made. If the hair is being worn slanted or straight back, the hair should be held in that manner while tapering.
After finishing the heavy side, start working on the lesser side. This side, depending on how low the part is worn, does not need very much thinning and only when the hair is worn back will you find that the part behind the ear needs some additional thinning. Taper in the same manner by first making a foundation of the last layer. Then take layer by layer to fit in with the foundation already made.
• Fig. 35
Illustrates a finished shingle with the outside layer of hair, which should never be thinned, combed down over the face.
• Fig. 36
Here you see the finished hair cut, combed off the face. This hair cut now lends itself, with slight alterations, to a variety of hair fashions.
• Fig. 37
Illustrating the hair dressed back of the right ear, sweep-ing from right to left, across the back of the head.
The arrow points to the short hair turned into the wave, thus breaking the line between the ear and the nape of the neck.
• Fig. 38
The special feature of this coiffure consists of the top layers tapered short enough to allow the ends to be brushed over the finger into a soft roll. The irregular, interesting hair lines (indicated by the arrow) should never be covered, especially if the hair line is very low.
• Fig. 39
The ends of the hair turned into waves in half ringlets. The diagonal wave and the oval neck line tend to slenderize a round neck, thus giving a more graceful effect than the too decided, pointed neck line.
See Index below for next Chapter
How to Create 1920's and 1930's Hairstyles
- Neck Lines
- Razor Comb
- Thinning Scissors