Binding a Hat with Velvet or Silk
Binding Hat: First wire the edge of a felt hat the same way as directed for buckram; but on a straw the wire is set a trifle in from the edge. Cut two bias strips two inches wide through the bias; if of velvet, cut off the selvages and join the two strips so they are in even line. (See Fig. 12.) Pin one end over edge of hat and stretch the velvet round over the brim till the pinned end is reached, mark with a pin and remove from hat; lay the strip flat and fold over so that the end touches the pin, then cut in the same line as the end; join these two ends the same as the others. Either backstitch or machine stitch, and flatten the seam.
Now turn the strip right side down on the upper side of brim, edge of velvet almost to edge of hat, pin in place all round, then sew with half-inch stitches on the velvet, one eighth of an inch from edge, and a small backstitch on the under side; this line of stitches must be perfectly even, and kept an even distance from edge of hat-from one quarter to one half an inch. (See Fig. 14.) Now turn the velvet over edge of brim, turn the edge under evenly, with the head of a large needle, and "slip stitch" it down. This is done by passing the needle inside the turned-under part and through the hat at a slant, then pass back with a tiny invisible stitch, bringing the needle out under the edge of the fold, and repeating until completed; thus no stitches show on either side. Dressmakers call this a "blind "stitch. (See Fig. 15.)
This method is the same for all hats, felt or straw, or hats of velvet or felt cloth. If a wider bind is desired, it is stretched on the hat after joining to size, both edges are turned under so they come an even distance from edge, and both are slip stitched; this can be done with one line of stitches, catching each side alternately.
Do not spare the pins; pin everything perfectly before beginning to sew. Note position of pins in the illustrations.
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