Millinery Materials for Covering and Trimming Hats
Millinery Materials: Having made or purchased a frame or hat, the next thing is to cover and trim it.
This can be done with a variety of materials; velvet, silk, or a combination of both; felting, broadcloth, or other materials, to match a costume; these last materials, however, look best trimmed with velvet.
Felting in a great variety of colors and shades can be purchased in the upholstery departments of the large stores. (They will send samples.) It is from thirty-six to seventy-two inches wide, and costs only from fifty-five cents to $1.10 the yard; a half yard of the wide is enough for two hats. The felting which is made expressly for millinery is very expensive, and the other answers equally well in most cases. In the upholstery felting there is no up and down, and hardly any difference in either side, so that it is very economical in cutting.
Velvet, besides having a right and wrong side, has an up and down, and great care is necessary in joining, either on the straight or bias, that the pile of both pieces shall brush and shade the same way.
Bias strips of velvet must be joined along the selvages, or along the straight of the web the other way. (See Fig. 12.) Never, if it can be avoided, join across the bias.
To cut a true bias, fold the velvet or silk over corner wise, so that the cut edge comes in even line with the selvage. (See Fig. 13.) Cut through the folded edge, which is the bias, and cut off strips for binds or folds by measure, so they are even all along. It is in joining these strips that care is needed to have them all the same way of the goods.
Binds and folds must be on the true bias or they will twist, and the softer and more stretchy the material is, the wider the fold must be cut, because it must be stretched on the hat and will narrow in the process.
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