Making Stiff Braid Hats
Stiff Braid Hats: In using stiff, harsh braids the edge is not bound, but the first row is sewn on the wire, allowing from half to one third to project beyond the wire; this is best put on with a half-inch buttonhole stitch, such as is used for sewing on wire. The remainder of the work is the same as before described, only as there is no bind, the two edge rows of the crown are slip-stitched together; and the first row of the under brim in the same way. (See Fig. 28.) The succeeding rows of the under brim are all slip-stitched on with the slanted stitch between the upper and under brim, and the tiny stitch on both sides. Let the last row of the under brim turn over the head wire into the crown with a long stitch inside and little one out, and to this sew the head lining. (See Fig. 29 of finished hat.)
Threads used in Covering Frames: For shiny braids use silk; for dull braids thread, always to match; when the under brim of a hat is of a contrasting color, as a black hat with white under brim, or the reverse, it is safest to use black thread, as black is more easily buried in white than white in black; in other contrasts it is well to experiment which will work best. Sew always from right to left, and hold the edge of the hat away from you.
Winter Braids: The same rules and suggestions apply to winter braids, which are more or less of silk-covered fiber mixed with chenille, or felt strips woven up with one or both of these; and sundry other combinations that each season brings into the market. But most of these braids are much more pliable, and stretch more than straw braids, and many are heavy, therefore it is very necessary to use care in sewing, to lap them only the least bit, and stretch the edges so as to have as little fullness as possible to draw up.
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